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As more and more diners appeared with some familiarity with the now-standard sushi repertoire, Tojo began to surprise them (and delight those less eager to eat raw fish) with a wider range of cooked dishes, and with traditional dishes that even Japanese visitors recognize as rare and special.On October 6, 1988 Tojo opened Tojo’s Restaurant on the second floor of 777 West Broadway in a quirky space with a homemade feel where he quietly garnered an international reputation.During years of 16-hour days at the Ohnoya Tojo mastered an encyclopaedic repertoire of some 2000 traditional Japanese recipes that he can draw on from memory even today.Here he also developed the disciplines of selecting the finest and freshest fish and produce.Fresh local ingredients unknown or very rare in Japan found pride of place in the dishes he served his customers: Gindara (Alaska black cod, aka sablefish), baked local oysters, local albacore tuna, asparagus, and famously: salmon (always wild, never farmed).Tojo’s barbecued salmon-skin roll, first created in 1974, was originally a response to the difficulty of obtaining eel (anago) on this side of the Pacific.Each one could run a restaurant of their own, but they stay together, under the watchful eye of the master, competing with one another to concoct new cooked dishes, new sushi and special desserts that bear their own stamp while living up to Tojo’s standards.

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Thus was born what is now universally known as the “California Roll” – not for its land of origin, but for the avocado.

Today this is the staple sushi for millions of North Americans who have no idea that it originated with Tojo, in Canada.

Here he welcomes the stars of Hollywood North, visiting executives of Japanese corporations, pilgrims who have read reviews of his restaurant in publications from around the world, and, as always, an expanding loyal community of Vancouver regulars.

He treats each with respectful equanimity mixed with infectious laughter, assuming that each shares his appreciation of freshness and originality.

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