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Edward Lisle Strutt, and containing Mallory, returned for a full-scale attempt on the mountain.

On May 22, they climbed to 8,170 m (26,800 ft) on the North Ridge before retreating.

On June 2, Mallory & Bruce set off from the North Col (C-4) to make the first summit attempt.

But extreme wind and cold, exhaustion, and the refusal of the porters to carry farther led Mallory to abandon the attempt and the next day the party returned to the North Col camp.

Odell, climbing in support below, wrote in his diary that at 26,000-ft he "saw Mallory & Irvine on the ridge, nearing base of final pyramid" climbing what he thought at the time was the very difficult Second Step at p.m.Mallory, seeing the treacherous nature of the traverse to the Second Step, went it alone.He reconnoitered the base of the climbing crux and decided it was not for him that day.On September 23, Mallory became the first person to set foot on the mountain and he, Bullock, and Wheeler reached the North Col at 7,020 metres (23,030 ft) before being forced back by strong winds.The second British expedition, under General Charles Granville Bruce and climbing leader Lt-Col.

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